The Map
Rockland to Mount Desert, Maine August 2006
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Monday, August 7th finds us staying in Rockland, Maine as there is a weather front
coming in. We spent the day provisioning by taxi, thanks to Joe's Taxi and a trip to
Shaws and Walmart. The weather out in the bay was squirrelly so we explored
Rockland some more. Richard went to Hamilton Marine and Penny returned to the
Farnsworth Museum. Delightful and do visit when you can. It is small but has
exceptional history and great art. Richard worked on the watermaker with success
which we will test when we are back out again. We threw another hen in the oven and
settled in to a cool night aboard. The weather cleared but it was still extremely
windy. Safe harbor in this weather is always welcome.


Aug 8 the weather has cleared some but still too windy
for fair weather sailors like us so we spent the day
taking Otis for a long walk, exploring the harbor and
enjoying the sights of tall ships coming and going. The
evening held harbor sailors racing and a full moon
rising. Delightful! (Happy Birthday Ross)
Aug 9 Wednesday dawns clear and fresh but Richard takes
quick trip to local sail maker for a splicing of our anchor rode.
He highly recommends Doug Pope of Pope Sails & Rigging for
his services. We moved to the town wharf for water and pump
out after breakfast at the Brass Compass and then headed
out under beautiful clear skies at 2:00pm. Energetic breeze
moved us along nicely to our destination off Vinalhavenat Seal
Bay, a remote and quiet anchorage after the hustle and bustle
of Rockland. The passage through Fox Island Thorofare past
North Haven was very pretty. The day was spectacular,
reaching mid 70's and closed by a full moon.


Thursday dawns clear but some rain is coming in so we leave early,
headed to Bucks Harbor at Cape Rosier which is well protected. We
motored all the way and arrived in time for lunch and a quick dog
walk exploring the landing. Nice friendly dock and a short walk to
the local market to pick up some dinner and veggies. Then back for
naps...such stress! The rain came in as we grilled some haddock and
watched other boats making for safe harbor during the rain. We
were also entertained by a fleet of dinghy sailors having lessons
weaving in and out of the moorings.



Friday Aug 11 comes in very cool, 53 at 8:00 am but crystal clear and sunny. Richard
gives us a good ol' fry up for breakfast and off we go at 10:00am to do the
Eggemoggin Reach. As we pull out of the harbor the wind picks up and we sail down
the reach, wing and wing, with gently following winds. Spectacular passage and
perfect winds. The puffy clouds are building as we exit after 12 miles and head up
Blue Hill Bay so we unfortunately have to drop our sails as they have clocked around
to be on our nose. We pull into Blue Hill Harbor and try to find a spot in the inner
harbor but can't find anything, so we return to the outer harbor and moor off the
Yacht Club. They were extremely hospitable and we again witnessed a beautiful
sunset as the weather came in with interesting cloud formations. Slept soundly
after a great day of sailing.


Aug 12 Blue Hill village beckons to be explored so after a dog walk around this very
hilly and wooded area we take the dinghy into town. The usual art galleries, bakeries,
ice cream parlors and local eateries speckle the streets. We picked up some
groceries at the General Store and saw incoming dark clouds. As the ride back to
the boat was long, we headed back, and lo and behold some locals were headed out to
the Bay,undeterred by the thunderstorms for the races. These are die-hard sailors
up hereand to be admired! When you only have a few days a year to sail, you have to
go for it when you can. We had steaks and watched.
Sunday Aug 13 we spent the cloudy morning doing fun chores like
cleaning out the V berth! We headed out towards Frenchboro on
Lunt Harbor, Long Island at 10:30 am with no wind, down the
East Penobscot Bay Passage. Beautiful islands all around with
much higher rock formations and huge abandoned boulders at the
water line. We arrived after a beam reach sail at 3:00pm and
found a mooring right off the lobster dock. Lots of activity with
local lobster men ferrying kids and family members back and
forth to neighboring islands. This is a very small community that
has struggled bravely to keep their heritage alive, as have many
of the outlying islands. We had great lobster at the dock and
settled in for the quiet night.




Aug 14 we headed out very early to Northeast Harbor after a gentle
rolling revelry of the lobster men going to work on a Monday morning.
We motored to our safe harbor on Mount Desert Island. This is Acadia
National Park mostly. Penny varnished a bit in the afternoon and then
we headed to the charming and small summer community bustling with
more galleries, a great market, bakery and local color. Richard made a
lobster casserole to die for from the spoils of our foraging! Tuesday we
debated about a job offer after chores and decided we were having too
much fun and would just have to cut back a bit. After a couple cocktails
with fellow boaters in the harbor, we confirmed we made the right
decision.

August 16th we remained in Northeast Harbor but took the
Island Explorer, a free shuttle bus, to Bar Harbor for
sightseeing and shopping. Ice cream for lunch contributed to
the state pastime statistics, I understand, as this is the
largest per capita consumption of ice cream in the US! We
returned early afternoon and Richard went to napping while
Penny headed to the Asticou Gardens on the cliff overlooking
the harbor. The gardens were empty and so peaceful. Lilies and
phlox were blooming everywhere and the scent was enveloping.
The grounds keeper came to close the gates and gave me a
private tour of the historic home and a brief history of the
gardens and the architects. This is the way the Maine
hospitality works and their sincerity, shyness and pride is so
refreshing. It was really a very special evening.





Thursday Aug 17 we leave Northeast Harbor at 9:30 am but there is no wind.
We are headed up Somes Sound, the only true fjord in the US. It was very
peaceful with steep hills bordering its narrow passage. We came back out
past Southwest Harbor, Bass Head Light and the Cranberry Islands back to
Blue Hill Bay where the wind picked up nicely and it was like lake sailing doing
6-7 kts. Great afternoon with sunny skies, warm breezes and puffy clouds.
We came into Buckle Harbor on Swans Island about 4:00pm with only 6
other boats, very serene. The shore was laced with trails which Otis loved
and digging on the beach was great fun. Another blessed day.



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Travels of the Viking Rose
Travels of the Viking Rose