The Map
Mount Desert to The Basin, Maine
August 2006
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Sunrise at Buckle Harbor
August 18th we wake to a clear, cool morning of 53 degrees and notice the days
are getting shorter. We did a few boat chores and took Otis for a wonderful
island walk. Other visitors have assembled little altars of shells, sticks and
found objects all over this small space. Very interesting subtle messages. We
left mid morning and crossed Jericho Bay with some occasional fog.  We arrived
after motoring in through some of Deer Island Thorofare and came to
McGlathery Island on Merchants Row early in the afternoon. The weather was
still clear and the anchorage serene with black guillemots, seals, deer and a
beach with only 4 boats adjacent. Penny varnished a bit as the Captain napped.
We went ashore at dusk and met out neighbors on the windjammer, Mistress,  
having a cook out and Otis was a big hit, romping in the small bay with a brave
and chilly Brit. Our other neighbors aboard Happy Ours brought their kids over
to check on Otis too. He had a lot of attention here!
McGlathery Island
The Rose at Buckle Harbor
Aug 19 we woke to a nice morning and left early to get back into Penobscot Bay,
heading to Pulpit Harbor, a good storm hole.  We set sail with 15 kts of wind doing
well until it died to 3 by noon so we continued dodging lobster pots with Big Blue
pushing us along. In the afternoon as we rounded Oak Island at the north end of
North Haven we were hit by big winds coming up Penobscot Bay. We moved along with
sails reefed at 8 kts. Yahoo! As we came along Egg Rock we saw seals sunning
themselves for the first time. We came into Pulpit Harbor by 2:00pm and anchored,
then watched fellow boaters come join us as the weather is looking grey and
foreboding once more.
Seals at Egg Rock
Bonnie Lynn
Sunday Aug 20 we woke to slow, steady rain and rolled over to sleep in. We are
trying to get to Rockland to pick up brother Reg but need a little better weather
to cross the bay. Richard made wonderful blueberry pancakes to help bide our time!
At 11:30 we saw a bit of clearing so we headed to Rockland, about a couple of hours
away. We picked up a mooring at Beggars Wharf and dinghied in our foul weather
gear to meet Reg at the Landings for lunch. Started him off in Maine with his first
lobstah roll! We then moved him aboard amid rain drops and went back to town to
stock the larder once more. Spent the evening aboard catching up and making plans
for his visit. Otis was happy to have Uncle Reg aboard!
Tall Ship
Aug 21 we still have rain but places to go so we head to the town dock for a pumpout,
water and showers. Pen and Otis picked up fresh blueberry muffins and we then headed
into Penobscot Bay once more in foul weather gear. The wind came up to 10  kts, we
raised the sails and then reefed as it built to 20-22. Great introduction to Maine sailing
for Reg! The sun came out late in the day and the wind fell so we ended up motoring into
Belfast. We landed safely at Diane and Alex Beck's mooring in Belfast Harbor next to
Ariel III. Thank you so much! We had some sundowners, grabbed a cold bottle of wine and
went to Young's Lobster Pound for lobster dinner. Great time had by all. ARRRRRGH!
Dinghy Bouys
Tuesday Aug 22 dawned clear and beautiful so we headed into town to meet Alex
and Dianne, commodores of SSCA, at Dudley's for breakfast and chat. Swapping
stories with fellow sailors is always entertaining and educational. They then took
us to a Maine institution, Remys, an old fashioned department store with
everything from soup to socks. We bought a few warm fuzzy clothing items as the
nights have a nip to them 'round here. They gave us a quick tour of this charming
small town and the we said our goodbyes and headed to a walking tour on our own.
There are many quality specialty shops and galleries and fun, good food emporiums.
Reg went to a local wooden boat restoration facility to see 3 Hereschoff designs
underway. We headed back to the Rose as we planned on moving on to Camden but
found that the current and wind would not let us off the dock. Reg and Richard
tuned up some of the rigging as we waited for slack tide at 4:30. We departed
without mishap and headed to Islesboro so that we could jump into Camden early in
the morning.
Belfast
Tuning the rigging
Aug 23 we left the DeGrasse's gracious mooring in Broad Cove under fair skies and
sailed down Gilkey Harbor with the company of a beautiful tall ship trailing behind.
We are headed to Camden to have our autopilot looked at by Wayfarer Marine. They
could not get to us until later in the day so I gave Reg a quick tour of town, picked up
a blueberry pie at Cappie's, fresh haddock at French and Braun and we all had lunch in
town. Our service was completed by 2:30 and we set sail for Carver Cove in the Fox
Island Thorofare.  We had a good beam reach with 15-20 kts of wind and we were
honking along at 7 kts. Fun! By 6:00pm we were successfully anchored in this very
quiet and beautiful spot. We took Otis for a walk on a stone beach, finding sea urchin
shells vacated by hungry gulls along the shore. Dinner for us aboard was grilled
haddock with fresh herbs from the garden and great blueberry pie for dessert
under starry skies.
Camden Inner Harbor
The Rose at Carvers Cove
Richard and Pen at Castine
Reg's day at the helm
Aug 24 we all woke up to a beautiful morning and set off
for
Castine at 9:30am.  The winds were mild but we sailed
up to the mouth of the harbor and came to a mooring by
2:00pm off Eaton's Boatyard. We watched some big boats
come in, headed in for a dog walk and showers and then
gathered together to meet the town. Tonight we will pub
crawl and eat our way around and get to know the Mainers
of Castine. Our first stop was Dennett's Wharf, home of
the longest oyster bar and they serve dark and stormies!
Then we hiked to the edge of town to the Castine Harbor
Inn, home of the Bagaduc Oyster Bar. The food was
exceptional and a very pleasant surprise in what seems to
be a very remote area. The town itself is full of well kept
historic buildings dating back to the Revolutionary War.
We then returned to Dennet's for another course and
then grabbed some ice cream and returned to the ship to
polish off the blueberry pie! A fun and interesting day.
East Penobscot Bay
Trumpy at Castine 1928
Dock at Castine
Pen and Reg in Castine
Aug 25 and we returned to Rockland once more to drop
off Reg. He is headed to the Wooden Boat Show in
Newport and we sadly begin our trip south. The weather
is more consistently cloudy and cooler so we are
anticipating fewer travel days. We returned to Tenants
Harbor for a quiet evening and spent some time with a
calendar to plan the next few weeks. They say a
calendar is the most dangerous instrument on a boat!
Owls Head Light
Tenants Sunset
Into the fog
Saturday Aug 26 we are up early, quick dog walk and off the mooring at 8:00am.
There is no wind, it is partly cloudy and looking gray. As we head down Penobscot Bay
and then across Muscongus Bay the fog can be seen ahead like a wall. Soon we are a
team steering, Penny above dodger watching for lobster pots, steering with auto
pilot and Richard at helm watching radar and course heading. What a team! The mist
is thick and quiet but blue sky can be seen overhead. We crossed more fog banks
which enveloped Sheepscot Bay and gave us no view of Cape Small as we passed. We
did see a whale sounding in the distance which was exciting. We headed up the New
Meadows River and the fog cleared after swallowing us for about five hours. At
3:00pm we entered a small, well surrounded harbor called The Basin. Our friends,
Hilde and David on Raven hailed us upon our arrival, they came aboard for sunset and
cocktails and we felt right at home. Otis enjoyed a sunset swim and a nose to the
ground run in the forest and we all slept well after a long day.
The Cuckolds Light
The Basin
Evening Swim
Heart Rock
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Travels of the Viking Rose
Travels of the Viking Rose