The Map
| Belhaven, NC to St. Simons, GA November-December 2006 |
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| Thursday November 9th arrived partly cloudy but we set off at 7:30am with Sadie A, after a quiet night at anchor. The wind is favorable so we raise sail by 8:30am. We sailed down the Pungo River and into Pamlico Sound as the day warmed to 60 degrees! How we welcomed this! We had wanted to go up the Pamlico River to check out Washington, NC as we had heard good things, but the wind was on our nose and this day of sailing was too good to miss. So we headed to Oriental on the Neuse River where we had spent some time on our way north. We pulled into the slip at Whittaker Creek Marina safely after a very good day. We had been accompanied by breaching dolphins, shrimp boats once more, many birds and fellow sailors ahead and behind. |
| Friday we decided that 8 consecutive days of travel deserved a breather and we were fighting colds so Richard made a glorious coffee cake, we had breakfast in the cockpit without socks, we chatted with fellow sailors and stopped to breath a little slower. We did move to an anchorage just off the town docks of Oriental so that we might visit the town we have always found interesting, populated by thousands of sailors and harboring all kinds of boats. Great lunch at M&M's, a visit to Inland Waterway Provision Company (a great chandlery) and a walk about for Otis. The high today was 76 degrees...a much better Butter Zone! |
| PS: The Butter Zone definition: When spreading butter on your morning toast, if it runs off the knife, head north; if it is so hard it won't spread, head south; if it spreads smoothly, leave your anchor set, and enjoy life. |
| After a delightful night at anchor, Saturday November 11th morning we head to New Bern to see some fellow sailors and explore this place so many have settled into. There was early morning fog and light wind which built as we enjoyed the morning sailing. We arrived by 12:30pm to find that the swing bridge which would allow us into the Sheraton Marina was having issues. We spun around many times and waited until 1pm hoping we would not have to turn back to Oriental so that we might reach there before dark. 15 minutes after we turned they called us back to "Come on down!" As we came through the entrance we heard cheers from our friends, Gerda and Jack, and we knew a fun time was coming. Our friends, Hilde and David of Raven have been here for weeks and we are looking forward to visiting them, also. Richard did a fine job maneuvering the Rose into tight quarters. What a great facility with friendly and helpful dock staff, many transient and liveaboards. We joined Jack and Gerda for cocktails, then headed to Chelsea's for great appetizers at the bar. Early to bed! |
| Sunday came in wet and grey so we had coffee with our friends, made some new ones and enjoyed the general camaraderie of Trent River Coffee shop. We spent some time doing chores, getting to know the lay of the land and reading. We even watched TV...what luxury! We have some engine repair work to be done which we have lined up for this week with Walter of Coastal Diesel who has just completed some repair for Gerda and Jack, and we also need some canvas repair work. A terrible storm came through on Thursday, with a tornado doing severe damage inland. We are glad to be safe at a dock and the dock hands were very attentive to untended boats, which we all appreciate. Fraser's Wine Shop had a wine tasting, just our kind of event, which we followed with a fine dinner at Fred and Claire's, chatting and drinking with the owners, Martin and Jan, a fun time and memories of being in the business. The next day we called on the sales office to see about dockominium opportunities then walked the dock to catch up with Penny and John of Seahorse and Marci and Gale of Nirvana. A good time was had by all. We really like this place! Tomorrow, the Farmers Market.... |
| The Market was small but informational as we could see what the locals came for. Great baked goods, fine local cheeses, local butcher, some crafts and writings, and more. This is off season so I'm sure it is well stocked at the peak. We gathered a few things to take home for Thanksgiving and look forward to visiting again. |
| As all good Americans, we headed to home ports for the Thanksgiving celebration....our closest and most dense, Atlanta. First to brother Mark's and then to sister Martha's. It was a great time for a week aboard land with safe travels, wonderful family to break bread with and share stories. We feel we helped put the fun in dysfunctional! |
| Upon our return to New Bern, we witnessed the holiday spirit extensively ALIVE! December 1 was a community tree lighting at the end of the dock. Saturday brought a huge parade and then a decorated boat flotilla, all accompanied by local high school and Marine Corps bands. This was really something to participate in and to get you in the mood with so many friendly attendees. It was great fun. We shared Wassail with Hilde and David aboard Raven to bring back the Old Country traditions. It was grand! We even decorated the Rose...check us out........ |
| After a few days in which Richard collected our car from Marblehead, our plans took on legs as we venture south. Three weeks is long in one port. After repairs and installing new midship cleats, it was time to move on. We uncurled our dock lines on December 5th after a farewell party aboard the Rose with the attached compadres. We shall be back to New Bern's welcoming arms, I am sure, and hope to see them all along the way or on our return. They all have planned to stay in this delightful community for the next few months and I know they will have great times together |
| A note for those who have helped us here: Cedric and Walter and Wally have fixed us up well. Without these fine craftsmen none of us could do that which we enjoy. We thank them for their expertise, their honesty and their diligence. We certainly recommend them if you pass through these waters.. |
| December 5th we headed south to Beaufort, NC. David helped cast us off at 10:30am on a clear crisp day. It was a day of motoring but not too cold with clear skies and warming sun. We arrived to sirens and mayhem, only to realize it was another parade. Santa pulled up the rear on a fire truck as we docked. Otis wondered what was going on. Who has a parade on a Wednesday? Still a nice community, a safe travel day and a quiet night aboard. |
| December 6th we head to Swansboro which we have not yet visited. The morning was very cold so back to long johns and hot chocolate but we welcomed the sun's warmth, too. We only had 4 hours to our destination. We arrived without incident and were the only ones at Casper's Marina. The forecast is continued cold, 22 degrees, so we spent another night here, tied to the dock and electric heat. The community is quaint, friendly but uneventful. |
| Saturday we are off to Wrightsville Beach to visit Tony and Marilyn Spicer once again. After a shallow wait at the bridge for the 5:00pm opening we dock successfully. The days passage of motoring has been chilly and so we gladly welcome their offer to spend the night. Otis makes himself right at home by snatching all Marilyn's stuffed animals! What a spoiled child. After a few laughs we enjoyed a great dinner at Bonefish then tucked ourselves into modern conveniences and said goodnight. |
| Sunday is still very cold but we leave by noon for a short trip to Southport to visit Mary Ellen on Oak Island. We came in safely after another day escorted by Big Blue. Mary Ellen gave us a quick tour of the historic downtown, a visit to Pete the pelican, one of her rescued birds and we shared a dinner at the beach. Great to see her. Monday is still chilly but sunny as we depart early for Myrtle Beach, SC. The shore quickly becomes much more developed as we reach our destination at Barefoot Landing just before dark. Once again, we are very lucky to have friends in this port and share bread and wine with Grant and Carol Kuhn.. |
| Tuesday morning we note the sleeping conditions have been warmer, the trees have become more lush and tropical and we can feel some thaw in our bones. Georgetown, SC is our destination which we have not visited by shore on our northbound course. The shore is now scattered with cypress, pine, live oak and palmettos with hanging Spanish moss. Very different than the overbuilding overtaking the shores north of here. We arrive in Georgetown by 4:00pm with incoming fog. We visited the local fishing boats, found great shrimp and fabulous grouper and had an excellent, quiet night aboard in this sleepy harbor. |
| The next morning was extremely foggy with sprinkles of heavy dew so we decided to have a day to enjoy the town. Breakfast at Thomas' Café was cheap and cheerful and set the tone for the day. A walk to the bank and the post office were the only chores on the list. We enjoyed poking around the shops, savoring the grand old homes set in avenues of live oak and the smell of the pluff mud as the tide came and went. |
| Thursday December 14 we move on to Charleston at first light in the fog once more. Thank goodness for our radar practice in Maine. We assumed positions of watch for the first few miles and the fog lifted as we entered the Intercoastal. The sun felt sincerely warm and nature was all around. So many birds entertained us: ibis, kingfishers, merganzers, bald eagles, great blue heron, cormorants, terns, gulls. Dolphins were abundant, the banks are now scattered with abandoned oyster shells and the salt marsh horizon that we know so well has returned. We arrived at 3 or so, back at Patriots Point and dine casually with brother Reg. |
| We spend another day in Charleston, cleaning topside and below after many days of running hard. We did enjoy a tour of The Spirit of South Carolina, Reg's passionate endeavour. He will be sailing on her next year after her launch in May. The progress they have made since our last visit in June is tremendous, What a sight and tribute to the era of the Tall Ship. We entertained Reg and friend aboard with Dark and Stormie's, curried shrimp and grilled plantains. Dreaming of more tropical ports? |
| Saturday is beautiful with projected 70 degrees. Wahoo! We are off to Beaufort SC, one of our favorite stops. It is a long trip and we start off with 2 kts against us with many narrow passages. We ran hard aground as warned off White Point so settled in to lunch until the tide brought us off. The rest of the day was spent watching the depth meter and enjoying the serene landscape. We came into the dock at 4:30, just before sunset. Last guy to the dock was a seaplane which we helped tie up, a first to see! |
| 7:15am December 17th we are headed to Isle of Hope to close our circle route. We left here Feb 18th. We are traveling in the waters of extreme tides and strong currents. We ran aground once more (just testing our patience!) at the entrance to Fields Cut. After we floated off we were pushed along at 7+ kts and into the familiar dock by 4:30pm. The day had been warm and beautiful but the no-see-ums were out with a avengance. Welcome home! There are camelias in bloom. We celebrated with a steak on the barbee and some fine red wine. |
| We have a short travel day Monday as we need the tide with us as we enter Hell Gate, a notorious small, shallow passage. We leave late about 1:00pm and arrive at Kilkenny Creek Fish Camp for a quiet evening successfully by 4:30pm. Tomorrow will be a long travel day. Otis really likes this place because there are other dogs to romp and swim with and a leash is not required. What a life! |
| We depart this no frill accommodation at 9:00am to make it through the shallows of Little Mud River at rising tide. It is a beautiful day and the scenery and wildlife are stupendous. Our navigational teamwork brings us through without folly. Our next hurdle is night time passage to St Simons Island, GA. The glorious sunset was followed by reflected city lights but by 7:00pm it is very dark, no moon, but warm enough to be comfortable. Nighttime harbor navigation is a new challenge but team work and the right tools brings us through miraculously! We are docked by 8:00pm., plug in the Christmas lights and settle in to relax and dine. We have been moving along with great weather for the past 12 days and, alas,this is coming to an end. Rain, high winds and cooler weather are predicted for the week of Christmas so our goal of St Augustine is shelved. We will be spending the holidays in this beach community where we have friends and will be visited by family. The journey shall continue just a little later........... |
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Travels of the Viking Rose
